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  Dolins Garden Center

August 2017

Sign up for “Tampa Bay Estuary‘s”

Rainwater Harvesting Workshop

Saturday, August 19

From 10 am to noon

Weedon Island Preserve


Have you ever thought "What a waste!" when you see rainwater pouring out of your gutter’s downspout and then down the street? By attending this workshop hosted by the University of Florida/IFAS Extension, you will learn how to save that water in a recycled plastic drum for use in your landscape. You’ll learn how to build and install a rain barrel.

Or you can purchase a completed rain barrel - in advance of the workshop.

Rain barrels are available only at the class and pre-payment is required when registering.

Cost for workshop is either $40, which includes the rain barrel, or free without a barrel.

Limited seating must make reservations at:



Pagoda Flower

This long blooming perennial is a 'classic old favorite' throughout the Deep South. In frost free areas it may produce flowers for most of the year. The leaves are heart shaped and can be as large as 12in across, flowers are funnel shaped with long tubes. While the individual flowers are really small, they’re arranged in massive clusters up to 1ft or more in height. Forming a pyramid shaped cluster resembling a Japanese pagoda. The showy display lasts from summer through autumn with additional sporadic flowering throughout the year.
The Pagoda Flower thrives in full sun to partial shade.
Warning; the Pagoda flower can become a big plant that requires a large space!
AND, it may produce suckers and spread itself around the garden, but it is not really invasive, and rarely becomes a nuisance.


Sambac Jasmine

Aka; Arabian Jasmine

Some call it a ‘bushy-vine’ others a ‘scrambling-shrub’ either way the Sambac Jasmine has shiny dark green leaves and fragrant little white flowers and will twist and twine as it clambers and sprawls over and through any support it can find.

With 1 inch waxy snow-white flowers, that are intensely fragrant, Sambac Jasmine will bloom throughout the summer, maybe even into fall or winter, as long as it’s warm.

A popular cultivar is 'Grand Duke of Tuscany' which has double flowers that look like miniature gardenias and – if possible – an even more ‘heady’ fragrance.

Sambac Jasmine prefers full sun to partial shade and plenty of water during the summer growing season, but reduce watering in winter. And, speaking of winter, it does very well in our area provided we don’t get a hard-freeze. Even then it will return from its roots in spring.

Sambac Jasmine makes a great container plant for the patio where its fine fragrance can be easily enjoyed.

Sambac Jasmine has been in cultivation for centuries - so long, in fact, that its origin has been forgotten, but it was probably India.

The fragrant waxy flowers are used in China to flavor tea and rice, in Hawaii they use the flowers in leis, in India they're used in garlands, and in the Philippines it's the national flower.


The "Grand Duke of Tuscany">


Song of India

Unlike most of its cousins, in the Dracaena Family, the Song of India has a ‘swirling’ or ‘meandering’ growth habit with numerous flexible stems  that usually emerges from the ground with very little branching. Easily kept at ‘shrub-height’ of 4 to 6 feet it can, slowly, grow into a small tree, reaching over 8 feet tall, and is usually used as a ‘specimen’. However, Song of India can also be used as a border, and – if kept trimmed - even as a hedge. Plus, it makes a great indoor or potted plant.

The leaves are narrow, 4 to 6 inches long, dark green with pale creamy-yellow edges which spiral – around the stem – upwards.

Song of India is drought tolerant, easily adapts to a wide variety of soil types and while it  prefers part-sun to bright filtered light Song of India can tolerate full-sun.


Spindle Palm

This palm looks great in almost any landscape!  Spindle Palms slowly grow to about 20 feet tall forming a gray trunk which becomes swollen in its center and narrows at both ends to form a "spindle" shape. It has a bright green, waxy crownshaft which is also swollen at the base creating a very interesting profile. The crown consists of 6-10 fronds which arch outward forming a 'V' shape and are 9-10 feet.

Spindle Palms prefer full sun and regular watering plus fertilize regularly to prevent nutrient deficiencies.  The Spindle Palm, is ‘cold-hardy’ and can handle some frost and temperatures to about 28 F for short periods.



Bottle Palm

Another great ‘Specimen Palm’ is the Bottle Palm which is more of a dwarf, growing slowly to only 10-12 feet. The Bottle Palm has a pronounced ‘bulging’ at the base, hence the reference to ‘bottle’.  A small crown, consisting of 4 to 8 fronds, sits atop a smooth green crownshaft that connects the leaves to the trunk. The upwardly arching leaves grow to about 10 feet.

Bottle Palms can adapt to many soil types, as long as they are well drained, and requires regular watering to look their best.  While this Palm prefers filtered light it can take full sun. Bottle Palms are more ‘cold-tender’ and will be killed by freezing temperatures. While not as prone to nutrient deficiencies as the Spindle Palm you’ll still need to fertilize this Palm three times a year.


Travelers Palm
OK, so it’s not really a Palm, this spectacular palm-like imposter is actually related to Bananas and Bird of Paradise.
Get ready for a giant of a plant - a "Traveler’s Palm" can grow very tall and takes up lots of space while young (before it grows a trunk). In our area they'll get about 30 feet high, but down south, closer to Miami, they may reach 50 feet - or more. The growth rate is fast until a trunk begins to develop. Then the plant settles into a nice, moderate pace.
These plants like full sun but can handle part shade, and do best when young in an area where the base stays somewhat shaded. Eventually it will grow into a full sun height.
The trunk is usually ‘solitary’ but occasionally offsets will form. These can be removed (though many people don't) to strengthen the main plant and keep its classic look. Flowers look similar to Bird of Paradise blooms.


Travelers Palm Folk-Tales = True or False...
One that is true: A parched traveler can poke a hole almost anywhere on this "palm" and get enough clean water for a good drink. The leaves collect rainwater which flows into the plant's stems, base, and even its flowers, ready to aid a thirsty traveler.
One that is false: The leaves always grow in an east-west direction so a lost traveler can find his way. While the leaves do grow in a ‘fan’ shape there is no pre-determined alignment with the Earth’s Magnetic Field.
One that is - well, you decide: Stand in front of a Traveler's Palm and make a wish in 'good spirit' - and the wish will come true.


Squirrel Repellent

If you're having problems with squirrels digging in and tearing up your flowers and landscape beds, or if they've just become a nuisance, try sprinkling some Wettable Sulfur in the area(s). One of our customer's "Ole Florida Cracker Mom" has been using Wettable Sulfur for years and they swear by it. Meanwhile, we've tried it as well and have also had luck.

The squirrels get it on their pads, as they walk thru the area, and do not like the taste when trying to clean it off.


Plant Care

Snowbush Caterpillars

As we first mentioned in June's Newsletter the Snowbush Spanworm Caterpillar is still causing problems for some of our neighbors.  This caterpillar loves to eat the leaves of the snowbush, and can be voracious eaters before eventually pupating into the white-tipped black moth.

Thuricide and Spinosad are both very effective insecticides for caterpillars! They are both natural organic and therefore safe to use. Since the adult Moth will continue to fly around laying her eggs you'll need to reapply once a week for several weeks.

The Caterpillar >
<The Moth


Hurricane Preparations
The best time to prepare your property for the possibility of a Hurricane is
BEFORE there’s one on the horizon!

Here are a few chores to consider;

·        Trim back the trees and remove any 'weak' branches. Especially any that comes into contact with your house or other structures.

·        Thin foliage so wind can flow freely through branches, decreasing the chance that trees/plants will be uprooted.

·        Remove large seed pods and brown fronds from palms.

·        Clean your yard of any unused items that could become missiles in a storm such as old lumber, broken lawn furniture, etc.

·        Be sure to discard the debris; don’t leave it piled up in the corner.
Make a list of any other items that may become projectiles that you’ll want to secure once a storm is predicted.
















Picture Courtesy of;

Once a storm has been predicted;

·        Do not cut down trees or do any major yard work. You will just create dangerous projectiles that you may not be able to dispose of before the storm.

·        Secure any lawn, patio, etc. items that were still in use or display.

·        Pick any fruit.

·        Consider cutting back vines on fences, etc. so they don’t pull the structure over in high winds.

·        Mowing the grass will make clearing debris easier afterward.


Last Chance to Prune Poinsettias
The rule of thumb is no more pruning after mid- September if you still want color in time for the Holidays.
Poinsettias should be pruned back in early spring. And, as the plant grows about a foot this new growth should also be trimmed back, leaving four, or so, leaves on each branch. You may need to trim monthly until mid-September.
"Pinching" the plant back, thru-out the year, will result in a compact plant at flowering time, rather than one with a few long, canes.
After this ‘last pinch’ your Poinsettia will grow another 8 to 10 inches. Then, in the first week of October it will initiate the ‘flower buds’.
Also, and this is really, really important;
Poinsettias need about 10 - 12 hours of TOTAL darkness at night, away from ANY 'artificial' lighting (porch lights, street lights, etc) starting the beginning of October in order to set flowers.

Should have pruned sooner! >

Now's also a good time to apply Magnesium Sulfate to your Poinsettia! Poinsettias tend to get a Magnesium Sulfate deficiency which causes their lower leaves to yellow, turn brown, curl up and die.  



Time to Prep Your Vegetable Garden
Let’s face it, August is hot, and until the temps cool down you really can’t do much in the way of vegetable gardening but you should take this time to prepare so you’ll be ready to plant when the time comes.
Officially, Labor Day is when you should get the garden started, and that’s not too far off.
Plan it Out
Your garden should be placed in a well draining area that gets at least 6 hours of direct sun a day.
Think about what you want to grow or more importantly what you will eat. And, which ones actually grow in Florida in the fall/winter.
If you have kids, what would be fun for them to grow? Kids generally like plants that have larger seeds they can handle and ones that will sprout relatively quickly so they don’t lose interest.
Remember, the sun will be lower in the southern sky, so it’s better to do longer beds that run east to west rather than square beds. This way you don’t have to worry too much about planting from shortest to tallest.
Prep the Bed
You should first define the bed and clear it out. Keep in mind a smaller garden that is well maintained is more productive than a larger garden that is weedy, bug infested, and wrought with fungus.
Amend the soil with organic matter such as peat, compost, worm castings and animal manures.
It’s best to do this at least 3 weeks before planting which is why it’s a good idea to do it now.
If your soil is too acidic add lime to bring the pH up. Lime is also essential if you are planning to grow tomatoes, peppers and others which require extra calcium. On the flip side alkaline soil can be lowered by adding granulated sulfur. You’re looking to have a pH around 5.8-7. If you're unsure of your soil's PH we do sell PH test kits.


.Lawn Care

Crab Grass
Now is the time for the quarterly application of pre-emergent weed control.
We recommend that you apply Hi-Yield's "Crabgrass Control" 4 times a year to help prevent weeds from sprouting from seeds and taking over your lawn. This herbicide sterilizes most seeds preventing them from germinating. However, it will not do anything to weeds that have already sprouted. If you are already having problems with broadleaf weeds, a post-emergence herbicide such as Hi-Yield's Atrazine or ferti-lome's Weed-Out with Trimec.


Peggy Green “Summer”
Lawn, Palm & Shrub Food

And finally,

If you've not fertilized your lawn (or shrubs) in the last two months, you'll want to apply Peggy Green.

It’s LOADED with mineral supplements such as iron, potash, & magnesium, yet it meets (and succeeds) all State, County & City Fertilizer Ordinances.
The iron & magnesium will give you Great Greening but not a lot of growth!
Plus it’s all natural! Safe for children, pets and the environment!
AND Peggy Green is a locally owned Company!



This Month Use Products Highlighted Below in Yellow





























Peggy Green












Weed N Feed













 Broadleaf Control  Weed Killer Granules
(as needed)













Atrazine or
Weed Out Liquid
 (as needed)















(Sedge Control)














Hi-Yield Crabgrass Control














Hi-Yield Grub Free Zone










Bayer Grub Killer Plus
(w/ Dylox)



Use as needed if grubs are a problem



Hi-Yield Bug Blaster














Bayer Fungus Control













or as needed



Dolins Garden Center

801 62nd Ave. N

St. Petersburg, Fl.  33702




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Crop Planting Dates in Florida (outdoors) Yield per 10 ft (pounds) Plants per 10 ft  Days to Harvest Spacing (inches) Seed depth (inches) Plant Family
North Central South Plants Rows
Arugula Sept–Mar Sept–Mar Oct–Mar 2.5 30–40 35–60 3–4 10 ¼ (Cabbage) Brassicaceae
Beans, bush Mar–Apr Aug–Sept Feb–Apr Aug–Sept Sept–Apr 4.5 30–60 45–60 2–4 18 1–1½ (Bean) Fabaceae
Beans, pole Mar–Apr Aug–Sept Feb–Apr Aug–Sept Sept–Apr 8 24–40 50–70 3–5 36 1–1½ (Bean) Fabaceae
Beans, lima Mar–Apr Aug Feb–Mar Aug–Sept Sept–Apr 5 20–40 60–80 3–6 18 1–1½ (Bean) Fabaceae
Beets Aug–Feb Sept–Feb Oct–Jan 7.5 30–60 50–70 2–4 12 ½ –1 (Beet) Chenopodiaceae
Broccoli Aug–Feb Sept–Feb Oct–Jan 5 8–12 75–90 (50–70) 10–15 24 ¼– ½ (Cabbage) Brassicaceae
Brussels Sprouts Aug–Feb Sept–Feb Oct–Jan 10 5–7 90–120 (70–90) 18–24 24 ¼–½ (Cabbage) Brassicaceae
Cabbage Aug–Feb Sept–Feb Sept–Jan 12 8–13 85–110 (70–90) 9–16 24 ¼– ½ (Cabbage) Brassicaceae
Cantaloupes Feb–Apr Jan–Mar Dec–Mar 15 4–6 85–110 (70–90) 20–36 60 ½–1 (Squash) Cucurbitaccae
Carrots Aug–Mar Aug–Mar Sept–Mar 10 40–120 70–120 1–3 10 ¼ (Carrot) Apiaceae
Cauliflower Aug–Feb Sept–Feb Sept–Jan 8 7–10 75–90 (50–70) 12–18 24 ¼– ½ (Cabbage) Brassicaceae
Celery Aug–Feb Sept–Mar Oct–Mar 15 10–20 75–90 6–12 18 On surface (Carrot) Apiaceae
Chinese cabbage Aug–Feb Sept–Apr Sept–Apr 10 7–9 70–90 (60–70) 14–18 14 ¼ – ½ (Cabbage) Brassicaceae
Collards Aug–Feb Sept–Feb Sept–Jan 15 5–10 70–90 (50–70) 12–24 24 ¼– ½ (Cabbage) Brassicaceae
Corn, sweet Feb–Apr Jan–Apr Oct–Mar 12 15–20 65–90 6–8 28 1–1½ (Grass) Poaceae
Cucumbers Feb–Apr July–Aug Jan–Mar Sept Sep–Feb 10 10–20 40–65 6–12 48 ½–¾ (Squash) Cucurbitaceae
Eggplant Feb–Mar Aug Jan–Feb Aug–Sept Aug–Feb 20 3–7 90–115 (70–90) 18–40 36 ½–¾ (Tomato) Solanaceae
Endive/ Escarole Jan–Feb Aug–Oct Aug–Feb Sept–Mar 7.5 8–9 60–80 14–16 18 ¼ (Aster) Asteraceae
Kale Aug–Feb Sept–Feb Sept–Jan 7.5 9–10 50–70 8–12 18– ¼– ½ (Cabbage) Brassicaceae
Kohlrabi Sept–Mar Oct–Mar Oct–Feb 10 24–40 70–80 (50–55) 3–5 24 ½ (Cabbage) Brassicaceae
Lettuce Jan–Feb Sept–Oct Sept–Feb Sept–Feb 7.5 10–15 60–80 8–12 18 ¼ (Aster) Asteraceae
Mustard Aug–Feb Sept–Feb Sept–Jan 10 12–24 40–50 5–10 12 ¼– ½ (Cabbage) Brassicaceae
Okra Mar–June Feb–Aug Jan–Mar Aug–Oct 7 12–30 60–70 4–10 36 ½–1 (Hibiscus) Malvaceae
Onions, Bulbing Mid–Sept – Mid–Nov Oct Oct 10 30 100–130 4–6 14 ¼–½ (Lily) Liliaceae
Onions, Bunching (Green and Shallots) Aug–Mar Aug–Mar Sept–Mar 10 30 50–75 (green) 75–100 (shallots) 2 (green) 6–8 (shallots) 14 ¼–½ (Lily) Liliaceae
Peas, Snow or English Jan–Mar Nov–Feb Nov–Feb 4 20–60 60–80 2–6 12 1–1½ (Bean) Fabaceae
Peas, southern Mar–July Feb–Aug Sept–Apr 8 20–60 75–90 2–6 12 1–1½ (Bean) Fabaceae
Peppers Feb–Mar July– Aug Jan–Mar Aug–Sept Aug–Feb 5 8–13 90–100 (65–75) 9–15 15 ¼–½ (Tomato) Solanaceae
Potatoes, Irish Jan–Feb Nov–Feb Oct–Jan 15 12–24 85–110 5–10 36–42 3–4 (seed pieces) (Tomato) Solanaceae
Potatoes, sweet Mar–Jun Feb–Jun Dec–Sept 30 10–12 85–130 10–12 36 (Morning Glory) Convolvulaceae
Pumpkin Early July Mid July Early Aug 30 2–4 80–100 (70–90) 36–60 60 1½ –2 (Squash) Cucurbitaceae
Radish Sept– Mar Sept–Mar Oct–Mar 4 120 20–30 1 6 ¼ (Cabbage) Brassicaceae
Spinach Sept–Mar Sept–Mar Oct–Feb 4 20–60 45–60 2–6 12 ½ (Beet) Chenopodiaceae
Squash, Summer Feb–Apr Aug–Sept Jan–Apr Aug–Sept Aug–Mar 15 5–10 40–50 12–24 36 1–1½ (Squash) Cucurbitaceae
Squash, Winter Feb–Apr Aug–Sept Jan–Apr Aug–Sept Aug–Mar 30 2–4 85–120 36–60 60 1½ –2 (Squash) Cucurbitaceae
Strawberry Sept 15– Oct 15 Sept 25– Oct 25 Oct 1– Dec 1 9–12 8–10 30–60 12–16 12 – – – (Rose) Rosaceae
Swiss Chard Sept–May Sept–May Sept–Mar 8–12 10–20 45–60 6–12 18 ¼–½ (Beet) Chenopodiaceae
Tomatoes (supported) Feb–Apr July–Aug Jan–Feb Aug–Sept Aug–Feb 2 4–7 90–110 (70–90) 18–32 48 ¼– ½ (Tomato) Solanaceae
Turnips Aug–Feb Sept–Feb Sept–Jan 15 20–60 40–60 2–6 12 ¼– ½ (Cabbage) Brassicaceae
Watermelon Feb–Apr Jan–Mar Dec–Mar 40 3–5 80–100 (60–90) 24–48 60 1½ –2 (Squash) Cucurbitaceae